The Lebanese fashion designer is on a mission to preserve the heritage and craftsmanship of his people through luxury, handcrafted garments.
Far from the hustle and bustle of modern life, in a remote mountain village in Lebanon's Chouf region, time seems to stand still. Despite rapid urbanisation in the world around them, the people here remain deeply connected to nature and their roots, staying true to a simple yet sustainable way of life. This is largely driven by the women of Mount Lebanon – characterised by their classic black attire and white veils. They are renowned for their intricate embroidery skills and it is their creativity that stirred designer Salim Azzam's passion to bring this craft to the world.
Salim Azzam (left)
In an era dominated by fast fashion, Salim – who hails from the same region as these women – dared to do something different. He recognised the potential of these natural-born artisans, who took pride in their craft, and envisioned a luxury ready-to-wear brand featuring pieces that celebrated their artistry, using sustainable materials sourced from these very villages. Many deemed the idea too ambitious, especially coming from a region that embraced a slower pace of life. But fortune does favour the bold and for Salim, the only way was up.
In 2016, Salim began with a simple design: oranges embroidered on the sleeve of a white shirt – a symbol that remains a cherished motif for the house. With just US$3,000 saved and no intention of starting a business, Salim spent the next three years working with three artisans. Together, they explored their passions, telling stories about their community and heritage through their craft.
In 2019, the team opened an atelier, uniting their creative forces under one roof. It wasn't long before the fashion world took notice, earning the brand
accolades, including the prestigious Fashion Trust Arabia Award that same year, and admiration from figures like Queen Rania, who remains a loyal fan of the brand.
Queen Rania in Salim Azzam
At the turn of the decade, however, the global grief of the pandemic cast a shadow of uncertainty. But, as Salim puts it, it was during these difficult times that the team produced some of their finest work, with the brand continuing to thrive.
Today, despite its success, the label remains true to its roots. An inside look reveals no complex industrial processes at play. Instead, the women who inspired the brand's humble beginnings are still at its heart. Behind the scenes, these talented artisans gather in their homes, sitting side by side, sharing stories of their heritage as they meticulously place one stitch at a time on each piece by hand.
The women of Mount Lebanon
Growing from just three to 60 local embroiderers, each of these women brings a piece of their heritage to the house of Salim Azzam. Together, they are working to revive intricate design techniques that are deeply rooted in their traditions, challenging the decline in demand for handcrafted items caused by the fast-paced nature of modern fashion.
It's not just the embroidery that pays homage to the Lebanese designer's local roots. The ready-to-wear pieces are all inspired by the local black-and-white attires of the people of the mountain. In many of the collections, white remains the baseline fabric, with clean-cut tailoring and oversized silhouettes a signature of almost every piece. It serves as a canvas of sorts, highlighting the simple yet striking embroidery designs that have appealed to fashion connoisseurs the world over.
Pieces from Salim Azzam's Aida collection (left and right) and 'Layl' hand-embroidered light coat from the Classics collection (centre)
Earlier this year, the brand launched its latest collection, Aida, featuring hand-crocheted shirts and dresses inspired by traditional crochet techniques. This followed the acclaimed 'Dancing out of the Chrysalis' line which was inspired by the wings of butterflies. Yet, among this year's achievements, the brand's partnership with the prestigious French jewellery maison Cartier, announced during Cartier's 100th anniversary of the iconic Trinity line, stands out as a major highlight. While full details of the collaboration remain under wraps, early glimpses reveal the Cartier logo embroidered in gold thread by the Lebanese artisans – a sign of exciting things to come!
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